Barrels and steri strips

The last few days have been amazing. Great waves and great times with friends is what it’s all about. I have been feeling so much more appreciation with the small things when it comes to being a surfer. The anticipation of a good swell and the journey to find them is just as special as the act of riding the waves themselves. It’s funny because a lot of us have what I call “surfers disease”, which is wanting to be where the waves and conditions are the best, at the right place, at precisely the right time and we’ll do anything to be there. Unless you’re a surfer it can be hard to understand but at the end of the day it’s what makes us feel alive.
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But right when you think you’ve got it all under control life throws a curveball when you least expect it. The next day after this session I was surfing at a much “mellower” spot when I ate it on a wave and my board decided to sucker punch me underwater putting a hole in my bottom lip. I came up with blood coming down my face and right then and there my course was corrected. Instead of thinking about my next wave or the next swell I was heading to the hospital to get stitches. The old me would have been super bummed and pissed to miss the next run of waves but I know this is my path and I am merely a passenger of life. I instantly felt gratitude and was thankful that I am even able to surf and do the things I am able to do. Over are the days of feeling sorry for myself or being a victim because the truth is there is nothing I can do about it.
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Once we’re able to surrender to life's path, things start to get much easier. Our expectations are lessened, we don’t feel let down by situations and we’re able to handle things with a greater sense of inner ease to “what is” in that moment.
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Thanks Greg Long for the steri strip job and thanks Rusty Long and Ted Robinson for the good times as usual. Of course thanks Taylor Evans or the sleigh ride into this special wave. 

But right when you think you’ve got it all under control life throws a curveball when you least expect it. The next day after this session I was surfing at a much “mellower” spot when I ate it on a wave and my board deciding to spear me underwater putting a hole in my bottom lip. I came up with blood coming down my face and right then and there my course was corrected. Instead of thinking about my next wave or the next swell I was heading to the hospital to get stitches. The old me would have been super bummed and pissed to miss the next run of waves but I know this is my path and I am merely a passenger of life. I instantly felt gratitude and was thankful that I am even able to surf and do the things I am able to do. Over are the days of feeling sorry for myself feeling because the truth is there is nothing I can do about it. Once we’re able to surrender to life's path, things start to get much easier. Our expectations are lessened, we don’t feel let down by situations and we’re able to have much more inner ease with “what is” in that moment. Thanks Greg Long for the steri strip job and thanks Rusty for the good times as usual and of course Taylor for the sled ride into this special wave. - Troy




Troy Eckert